By Gabrielle Granillo

Denmark, with its natural landscapes and coastal scenery, is composed of multiple islands connected by the modernity of bridges and ferries. The most incredible plains roll right up against the shores.

While living there as an international student, I walked in lush parks juxtaposing Copenhagen’s industrial skyline. It felt like taking a walk in the past, present, and future. There’s a timelessness Denmark exudes that cannot be found anywhere else. The looming trees, scraggly walking paths, sandy dunes, and untrimmed grasses melt into the horizon.

This feels more like home than any other place has. 

Amager in Copenhagen and the fallacy of the old dog

The weather is the most unpredictable part of Denmark, and I think it brings a bit of charm and mystery. The rains can be heavy and sharp, the snow fluffy and crisp. Meanwhile, scorching sun glitters when it’s out, generally paired with smooth, chilling wind. Even the days with gray skies are once more brought back to life against the greens and browns of the landscape, color and warmth found on the darkest days.

This feels more like home than any other place has. 

More specifically, Amagerbro on the island of Amager in Copenhagen, was home for 5 months. Against the calm mundanity of looking out my window at the same view each morning, the sky was not stagnant. But, then again, neither am I. Being there reminded me of the fallacy of the quote, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks”: Here, as the same old person in the same old body, I found myself forming habits, relationships, and routines in a foreign place that is not so forgiving as home.

The wind, cold, and unruliness of the weather used to keep me locked inside in the United States. But in Denmark, I was grocery shopping for new ingredients, walking to the local store in more layers than I ever believed myself to own. This city, this landscape, this humungous yet minuscule community, drew me in so heavily. I still memorize the streets, my bikes to class, and walks along the pond with my partner. I can still feel the quiet of lying nakedly half-asleep, watching the sky paint kaleidoscopes on my window.

Walking the Amarminoen in Denmark and other paths

One of my favorite memories while living there was completing the Amarminoen, the 17-mile walk from my island’s Ørestad neighborhood to Dragør on another island called Zealand.

My last walk would start with Valby Park. Expansive, green, lush, and nostalgic, I love watching everyone play disc golf through the lines of trees; sitting on the benches in the sunshine. Imagine clinks of discs hitting bark, the wind shaking and muttering through the forest, and laughter from families, friends, and lovers. 

Walking on into Kødbyen, I’d get lost between the industrial buildings. The bikers navigating crooked lanes and the food are reminiscent of my East Coast cities back home. It makes me think of what I’m missing in Boston. 

Tivoli, no matter the time of the year, is the epitome of hygge. I stop at every shop, peek in, and maybe buy a little knick-knack or two before snagging a warm drink to keep me company through large crowds. The twisting rides, children’s screams of joy, golden string lights, and carousel horses painted with every color of the rainbow come together for a real-life fairytale. 

I walk to the bridge, Dronning Louises Bro in Nørrebro, catching one of the most beautiful views of Copenhagen. Here, people commute to and from the city’s central and northern reaches amidst sky, water, greening copper statues, and scattered tourists.

At the northern-most part of my walk, I head to my favorite, Superkilen. Alice in Wonderland could have designed this gigantic park with its deep reds, greens, whites, looping paths, and funky signage. Families love the well-lit bike trails, boxing ring, swings, monkey bars, and skateboard park. It’s the perfect precursor for Den Hirschsprungske Samling, my favorite museum in Copenhagen. The private collection captures Denmark’s nature and landscapes amidst the city’s urban heart. 

I got my second tattoo further along the route in Nyhavn. The little swallow reminds me that I am free to fly wherever I may choose, including here, where the iconic building boasts colors that can be seen from across the harbor in any direction.

My longest stretch of the walk is through the neighborhood of Christianshavn. I adore the old architecture, houses surrounded by water, and all the small dining institutions. I spent a lot of time here, going for long strolls and eating from food and coffee carts amidst locals, historic buildings, second-hand shops in apartment basements, and employees taking smoke breaks. 

Amagerbro, my home with the lake and my regular grocery store, is the final stop.

Denmark is (not so secretly) my favorite place in the world. The Amarminoen is (not so secretly) my favorite walk.