Frigid mountain air, old wooden ships, and herds of wild reindeer — these are all the scenes I was greeted with while in Tromsø, the northern lights capital of the world, a few winters back.
Flying over the speckled sea icebergs, our little plane battled harsh Arctic winds and fleets of snow to reach this Nordic town at the top of the planet. We had already been delayed by a few days due to a severe storm, and my partner and I were prepared to drag our carryons for miles through the snow to our Airbnb (which happened to be a wintery cottage owned by a woman named Hilde, who seemed to be constantly armed with crispbread, snarky remarks, cultural tidbits about the area, and generous portions of homemade lingonberry jam). The very cold and wet trek was worth the exhaustion and soaked socks.
We made snow angels on cliffs overlooking the harbor, ate lefse with powdered sugar in the light-strung street, went fjord hopping in the middle of the polar night, and, of course, watched northern lights illuminate the frost-laced landscape. I’ll never forget the warmth and laughter or the frigid temperatures, stormy skies, and the feeling that there could never be enough time in the world to fully explore this gem above the Arctic Circle.
While stories of Tromsø tend to be completely based on aurora chasing (which is pretty cool, believe me), it’s important to note that there are plenty of other incredible sides to this “Paris of the North.” The hikes, food, Norwegian culture, and festivals are just a few aspects that deserve more attention. But, if you’re wanting to see the light show, that’s also there.
So, if you want to have a meaningful experience in Norway and don’t want to brave the crowds of Oslo, consider opting for this city closer to the North Pole.
Not sure where to start? Here’s how to spend a weekend in Tromsø no matter the season.
How to spend an autumn or winter weekend in Tromsø
Friday night in Tromsø
During the cold season, Tromsø spends most days in complete or partial darkness. Be prepared to be outside while relying on lanterns, flashlights, and firelight, or find things to do indoors. You’ll want to pack plenty of thermals and clothing that can protect you from the elements such as snow pants, fleece coats, scarves, etc. Gloves are especially key.
After flying into Tromsø’s tiny Arctic airport on a Friday night, head to the Radisson Blu Hotel downtown for a central location, Nordic architecture, and comfortable rooms with sparkling views of the sea and city lights. There’s a pizza restaurant and a pub onsite, but if you’re not too exhausted from your travel day, change into something comfortable and warm and head out for an evening of Tromsø exploration.
If you’re hungry, Fiskekompaniet is a beautiful fine dining experience that echoes the city’s reputation for style. The winter 4-course menu features dishes such as smoked redfish with harissa & greens and saithe with beurre blanc & fennel. For dessert, financier with caramel & ice cream awaits, and every meal comes with oysters and caviar. If you’re in the mood for something more casual, grab fish soup, salmon sandwiches, and Nordic Italian food at Pastafabrikken.
Spend the rest of the night wandering through the historic downtown under the strung lights before coming back to your hotel for a good night’s sleep.
Saturday in Tromsø
Saturday morning, get up early and walk to Risø Mat og Kaffebar for the best-ever Norwegian-style cinnamon rolls (called “kanelsnegle”) and fabulous coffee. This is also a solid place for lunch thanks to dishes like cauliflower soup and open-faced shrimp sandwiches. Watch the snow fall outside as you warm up inside this cozy eatery.
After you’ve had your fill of Tromsø fare, spend the rest of the morning wandering around the city. There are lots of great shops selling artisanal goods, so if you want to grab a souvenir from your trip, there are plenty of options on main street, called the Storgata. If you’re regretting your jacket choice, this is also an awesome spot to buy a new one, as this central hub is filled with outerwear shops.
Check out of your hotel by the time afternoon hits and store your bags (or travel like I do, and just pack what fits in a backpack that you can carry around with you). It will look like dusk around this time, depending on which month you’re in Tromsø. This is my favorite time to walk up to the famous Arctic Cathedral, or the “Ishavskatedralen” in Norwegian. The church looks like an iceberg glowing above the hills of the Nordic neighborhoods overlooking the harbor. The views from here are amazing, but on the walk up, the Tromsøbrua offers spectacular vistas of the fishing boats and marinas below.
If you’re wanting more views, make your way up to the Fjellheisen cable car in Solliveien, part of Tromsdalen. This bright red vehicle will take you up over icy slopes and pines to the top of Storsteinen in 4 minutes. Many wait to do this at night when the aurora is visible above the city, but I like to hike at the top and it’s more doable during the afternoon’s slightly brighter hours. There are guided snowshoe walks at the top, as well as a cafe that serves bites like traditional waffles with jam, sour cream, and brown cheese; fish soups, roasted pumpkin dishes, and vegan apple pie. However, the view in itself is worth the fee and the ride up.
By 2 p.m., make sure you’re off the mountain because this is a wonderful time to get active and spend a few hours cross-country skiing. Some popular picks for beginners to average sportsmen include Lysløypa Tromsdalen and Lysløypa Tromsøya. You can rent skis at places like Tromsø Outdoor, which also leads tours for those who don’t feel comfortable venturing out alone (seriously have heard countless compliments from locals about this place). If you’re not into skiing, try a whale-watching tour instead!
At this point, you’ll want to start heading toward your stay for the night: Camp North Tour Hotel.
This is the Nordic version of glamping, a trend that’s taking over luxury tourism abroad. If you want to see the Northern lights, this is the best place to stay, with the igloo-shaped ceilings providing plenty of windows for keeping your eyes on the sky all night. In-room amenities such as high-speed internet and a fireplace keep things comfortable, while communal dining areas with coffee, tea, and a minibar are available. As there is not a restaurant on-site, you’ll want to bring your own food to cook in their ovens (glassware and dishes are at your disposal) — there’s a Eurospar Main Street on the Storgata where you can grab something easy (I’m always a big fan of the convenient boxed soup options in the Nordics, but things like sandwich ingredients, noodles, and tinned fish are also easy dinner ideas, while pastries and oatmeal work as simple breakfasts). The airport is nearby, and the Kvitberg bus stop is a 10-minute walk away, so while this may feel like it’s uber-remote, it’s accessible.
Spend a slow Saturday night outside with plenty of warm drinks, good snow gear, and perhaps a camera (make sure to configure the settings for nighttime and use a tripod). Listen for the howl of Norwegian wolves and the presence of wildlife like moose, reindeer, and other gentle creatures, and soak up that wild, wild nature found at the top of the world.
Sunday in Tromsø
Enjoy your cozy room on Sunday morning before trekking out into the snow. This site is fantastic for hiking, so take advantage of the cold, quiet mornings and get outside. When you’re ready to pack up and head out, take the bus back to town and visit Full Steam, which calls itself the northernmost coastal museum in the world.
Here, you can learn all about the Sami people, Arctic fishing life, and maritime history in the area. Among the winter and autumn experiences offered as a cod tasting package, which dives into the history of cod in Norway. As you get some serious education about a unique topic, you’ll also be savoring smoked cod roe, stockfish (a Viking staple), and cod liver. It is a tasting after all! There is also an exhibition about the northern lights, complete with vibrant photography and information about local mythology.
Still hungry? You’re in the right place. Full Steam’s on-site restaurant serves up traditional dishes for lunch and dinner like smoked salmon with potato salad, fried cod tongue served on the side of pea puree, apple cake, and, of course, fish stew.
After enjoying a hearty lunch, set sail on the institution’s Strønstad ship for onboard traditional sauna experiences and, if you’re with a group, outdoor jacuzzi time. Take in the views, look for whales, and get in some serious relaxation after all the outdoor fun in the wild.
By evening, you can take the Airport Express from the city center back to, you guessed it, the airport, and catch your flight back.
How to spend a spring or summer weekend in Tromsø
Friday night in Tromsø
During the warmer season, Tromsø enjoys almost 24 hours of complete daylight. This makes it an ideal time for those who want to spend all their time outside. You’ll still want to pack plenty of layers and clothing that can protect you from the elements such as rain jackets, pants, and shoes that can get wet. As someone who grew up in the Pacific Northwest, this is a pretty typical summer for me, so I’m comfortable wearing shorts, a shirt, a sweater, and Chacos. But if you are easily chilled, I highly recommend dressing as if it’s autumn in the United States.
After flying in on a Friday night, you’ll want to drive 30 minutes to ÆRA, a cabin stay along the fjords of the region. You’ll have access to rental cars if needed, but otherwise you can take the bus from the airport. Come hungry, because the aesthetic destination does a King Crab dining experience for overnight guests from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. nightly. The fresh crabs are flown in daily from the Barents Sea, granting an opportunity to literally taste the region. As they cook, hosts discuss the history and cultural value of king crabs in Norway. The succulent meat is served with bread, butter, lemon, and, in true Nordic fashion, mayonnaise. Coffee, tea, and water are also included.
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As daylight is available all night during the summer, you can either go back to your cabin and enjoy your views, or you can do some walking or biking (they have rental bikes you can borrow) around the property. Take your camera, because you’re sure to spot wildlife.
When you do decide to turn in, make sure to appreciate the craftsmanship of the glass and panoramic glass cabins, each built in a style that honors contemporary Nordic architectural practices. Enjoy modern appliances and accommodations in a move that brings every traveler a little closer to Norway’s modern identity.
Saturday in Tromsø
Saturday morning, get up and do a little more walking (believe me, there’s no such thing as too much walking when it comes to Nordic summer trips — countries above the Arctic Circle are perfect for just existing outside). Again, bring your camera or art supplies if you want to bring home some authentic scenes from your trip. After, take a steam in ÆRA’s traditional sauna to relax your muscles for your day ahead.
Pack up your things and head to Scandic Ishavshotel, where you’ll be staying tonight. Here, you can check in, drop off your bags, take in breathtaking views of the water, and, if you get there early enough, grab breakfast and coffee at their award-winning buffet. If it’s too late, you really can’t get better than the aforementioned Risø Mat og Kaffebar, which is conveniently nearby.
Post-meal, make your way down the Storgata to take in the local culture, stopping in shops, snagging souvenirs, and maybe even chowing down on some morning lefse at the kiosks that line the main street. I love the art inside the Chasing Lights bricks-and-mortar. This place is my favorite for northern lights chasing in the winter, but year-round they sell pretty incredible goods like whittled carvings, paintings, and sweaters.
Make sure you’re wearing practical hiking clothing because the rest of the day should be spent outside in nature. Pack snacks and water with you, which you can grab at any of the central city’s grocery stores. There are endless hikes and adventures to choose from, including visiting the world’s most northern botanical garden, swimming at Telegrafbukta, kayaking with local guides, or hiking the Herpatrappa, Fløya, Bønntuva, Tromsdalstinden, Tromsdalen power line, and Steinbøhytta trails (read all about them here). Get ready for lush wildflower meadows, endless sunlight, plenty of beaches, and views of the sparkling fjords. If it’s raining and you want to stay out of the elements, check out museums like The Polar Museum and The Arctic University Museum of Norway.
When you get hungry, Mathallen is a restaurant in Tromsø that constantly gets praised for its use of raw Arctic ingredients. Potato waffles topped with fish roe and browned butter, steamed cod with leeks, cold raspberry soup, and fish burgers served with fennel, fries, and chili mayonnaise are just a few of the menu’s mouth-watering listings.
Another culinary gem? The Elefant Indisk Restaurant. My partner and I stuffed ourselves with their perfectly spiced curries, papadam, pakora, dal, naan, and masala.
If you’d rather eat outside, it can’t get better than packing a picnic to take to one of Tromsø’s many outdoor spaces like the parks, beaches, or viewpoints you’ve enjoyed that day. Grab local fare from one of the specialty stores or markets, and don’t forget to try some blueberry juice, which is my beverage of choice while in the area.
Catch the midnight sunset (it doesn’t completely go down, but turns the whole sky into a light show) before grabbing a late-night coffee and cinnamon roll at Kaffebønna Stortorget. To this day, I consider their oatmilk lattes and pastries some of the best I’ve ever had anywhere, not just in the Nordics.
Keep the Saturday night going by buying a local bottle of wine or sparkling cider and taking it up to your room to watch the night march by over the water.
Sunday in Tromsø
Savor a slow morning on Sunday, grabbing coffee inside the hotel or even better, make it in your room. For breakfast, check out Koseverden&KoseligCafe for Nordic waffles, oatmeal, omelettes, and pancakes!
Spend the afternoon doing the hikes or outdoor activities that you couldn’t fit in on Saturday. Bring your camera and plenty of snacks, water, and layers.
When you get hungry for lunch or dinner, Wedebs Restaurant is a unique pick, serving food from the horn of Africa above the Arctic Circle. I’m a big fan of sambusas, injera, shiro, and tim timo, and they have it all. If you’re still on a Norwegian food kick, however, you can grab a bite at Art Cafe in Tromsø. Nordic benedicts, marinated herring, smoked salmon salad, crab bisque, and cheese plates await!
By evening, you can take the Airport Express to the airport and fly home, wherever that may be.
Blinter Magazine 